JULLISON LED 6 Inch Recessed Low Profile Slim Panel Light with Junction Box, IC Rated Air Tight, 12W, 800 Lumens, 3000K Warm White, CRI80+, Dimmable, Damp Location, ETL (4 Packs)

These lights are pretty slick. They are very low profile, and easy to install. They are also very bright and put out quality light. I gave it four stars instead of 5 mainly due to the build on the LED driver. To meet the national electrical code, wire needs to be secured as it enters the fixture/driver. The driver has a standard 1/2" knockout that fits a NM cable connector. Luckily I had plenty of these on hand, so no big deal. However, the need for a cable clamp isn't indicated anywhere, so I'm sure a lot of DIYers have loose wires rubbing against sharp metal sheeting - an arc fault fire waiting to happen and an NEC ventilation. I would have preferred a more solidly built case on the LED driver with cable clamps either built in or included.The push-in wire connectors were nice. No complaints there.I do want to note also that I did experience trouble with one of the four in the first four pack. I installed all four from this pack.Three worked perfectly, and everything was a breeze to install. However, three of them were wired in a series on one switch. Once everything was wired I went to flip the combination AFCI/GFCI breaker back on, the AFCI/GFCI would trip. I rechecked all of the wiring and found no issues. I eventually troubleshot it by removing lights one-by-one on the circuit and flipping the breaker on so that I could track down the short. The final LED driver on the circuit was the problem. It was wired correctly, which leaves me to believe that the LED driver itself was the culprit. I've left seller feedback requesting that they send a replacement LED driver. They couldn't send a single LED driver replacement since they come in four packs. However, they did give me a coupon code for 75% off another four pack. That worked for me. I haven't installed those four fixtures yet, but hopefully they all work. I'll update this rating once I do.

I bought 7 of the 4-packs of the 3000K 4" 550 lumen fixtures based on some lighting calculations I did for my basement finishing project, consisting of about 800 square feet of finished space. I prefer the look of 4" fixtures to 6" fixtures and opted for a greater number of lights for more even light distribution. When I first wired one of these lights in to see it in action, I was certain I had bought way too many lights. But I decided to wire them all up with the layout that I had mapped out and see how it looked. In the end I was glad I stuck with the density of lights that I chose. In the pictures, the ceiling tiles are 2 ft. x 2 ft. to help you get a sense of how close I put them. I made certain these were dimmable and did a bit of research into the best kind of dimmers for them, as I want the ability to crank up the light when desired and tone it down when not (see more on the dimmers in my notes below).I used a hole saw to cut the circle in the tiles and slipped these in with two 3/8" romex clamps in each.Things to note:- One of the dimmer switches I put in controls 19 of the lights, for which I bought a Lutron DVELV-303P-WH 300 dimmer, as it can dim up to 300 watts (most only handle up to 150 watts when dealing with LEDs). I installed and tested that dimmer (which requires a neutral to be pigtailed to the dimmer) and it worked flawlessly. ZERO buzz or hum from the dimmer or any of the lights at any intensity setting. Note that this dimmer is the 3-way dimmer version, you can get a DVELV-300P-WH 300 if you don't need 3-way functionality though it costs about the same.- There's a small bedroom off on the side (not shown in the pictures) in which I have only 3 of these lights installed. That room is perhaps 150 square feet. I didn't want to spend big bucks for another DVELV-303P-WH 300, so I used a Lutron DVCL-153P-WH on that one. It's about one-third the price of the DVELV. It works fine, there is no buzz or hum with that one either, but you have to set the dial on the switch to the minimum brightness that works for you, and depending on how you set it you may have lag between flipping the switch on and the lights illuminating.- The color output of the lights I chose has the yellow-ish hue you'd expect from a 3000K light. I have other LEDs in the house that are 2700K and I can tell these are not as yellow as those, so I think the color temp is as rated.- I dropped at least 3 of the metal junction boxes on the cement floor from atop my ladder while screwing these into the bottoms of the joists. I was expecting at least one of them to fail on account of that. But so far, all lights are working correctly.- My drop ceiling tile bottom out at about 10" to 11" below the bottom of the joists. As long as I centered the junction boxes as well as possible over a square in the grid, and made sure that I positioned the boxes such that the connection wire pointed in the general direction of where the fixture would snap in, I didn't have any trouble making the connection between the junction box and the fixture.- The group of 19 lights in the main area are connected with 14-gauge wire on a 15-amp circuit.- The 3 lights in the bedroom and 6 lights in what will be a wet bar area are all on 12-gauge wire on separate 20-amp circuits. I wired those rooms before buying these lights, and I expected it to be a pain to work with 12-gauge wire with these lights. While 12-gauge wire is stiffer and harder to work with than 14-gauge, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the quick-connect push-in connections do accept 12-gauge wire. I expected they only took 14-gauge. So I didn't have to cut and wire nut the wires together.Now that I put into play all 28 of the lights I bought, I am thinking of buying another pack of these lights in case some of my fixtures or the drivers in the junction boxes fail down the road. I worry that years from now I won't be able to find a 1:1 replacement -- that it'd look slightly different in color or that the driver wouldn't support my dimmer, etc.I'm happy with these so far, as is my wife.