EKDJKK Ender 3 Upgrade Parts Dual Z Axis Set, Aluminum 3D Printer Upgrade Kit Dual Z Tension with Pulley Lead Screw Kit for Ender 3 Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer Single Motor Dual Z-axis

No viene con instrucciones y la placa de tension es muy virta por lo que no tiene demasiada carrera para hacer el ajuste de tensión, el disenño de la polea tensora no esta bien diseñado, los materiales son de una calidad muy pobre, sin embargo te sacan del apuro en lo que buscas componentes de mejor calidad.

There are many similar kits sold here and elsewhere. I ran into a few minor snags while assembling it and decided to note them so others will be prepared. None were show stoppers and since this is a common design most probably have the same problems.The first problem is the hole in the back plate for the eccentric assembly was drilled a little off on mine so I was not able to lower the amount of pressure applied to the POM roller. While it did roll the pressure can cause a flat spot on the POM wheel so the plate was removed and the hole for the eccentric was filed. If yours is too tight file it towards the red arrow shown in the first picture.The second was the holes for mounting the holders to the top bar were not threaded. If yours are not threaded do not try using the stainless steel screws provided to hold the bearing in place to thread them. They are too soft and will be stripped. I used a black steel Allen head socket to thread all four of them .Next was just a visual concern since the belt did not rub. If you want to center the belt in between the flanged bearing used as a pulley add 2 washers under the white plastic spacer.And last the original filament roller mount needed to be raised a bit so the filament cleared the belts and pulley if the filament holder is mounted at the top. Mine is not in its final spot, was just making sure filament cleared the pulley too if needed. It was raised 18mm you may need more of less. If you do not want to design your own spacer there is one on a site for 3d printer stl's. Look for" Filament reel spacer for Ender 3 dual Z " and at least one should come up. Thingiverse was a search item that was also used.This is not an indictment against the product as the end result was well worth adding it to the printer. Mine has the microswiss direct drive added and the additional weight was causing problems that were solved with the addition of this kit.

This is a clone of a clone it seems like. There are no included instructions and there seems to be 3-4 different types of these kits floating around amazon, ali etc so it's a little difficult to find a step for step instruction on how to install this. That said, if you have a little knowledge of installing kits similar to this it should go ok using another kit install vid. This kit requires you to replace the top 4 frame bolts on your printer to mount the pulley mounts so there is no room for adjustment which is not good. Definitely check for any Z Screw binding after install. These plates also use 2xM3 screws to lock a bearing in to place and I had to re-tap the threads on one of the plates for those.As another reviewer stated, all the hardware is bottom of the barrel, Phillips head fasteners which is annoying when using hex cap screws would not have significantly increased cost.Complaints aside, this kit has not seemed to negatively impact print quality and is cheaper than most alternatives. My reason behind installing this kit to to prep my printer for a heavier, direct drive extruder and hot end assembly (E3D Hemera).

Would be nice if it came with Allen head bolts instead of Phillips head screws and a little nicer brackets for the lead screws.

Just installed it on my Voxelab Aquila, and fits and works great. This kit, along with the anti-backlash nuts (I used the brass ones, 2 pack, Polisi3D brand, here on Amazon), FINALLY entirely fixed the problem my printer was having with the Z axis squishing the first 1mm worth of layers.Prior to this upgrade I tried other adjustments to fix the elephants foot issues (Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion setting in Cura, tightening the roller wheels so there's no wobble, checked for Z binding (none found), perfect bed leveling, etc..., but nothing else worked like the combination mentioned above. I also tried the anti-backlash nuts on their own (without the dual Z mod), which helped a tiny bit with the elephants foot/Z squish issues, but it was not until I upgraded both (dual Z AND anti-backlash nuts) that I started getting perfect prints dimensionally.I purposely did not go with a dual Z motor setup, as those can be a pain if you accidentally move one of the lead screws (completely messes the alignment). I prefer this single Z motor setup which instead uses a belt at the top to continuously keep both Z lead screws perfectly synchronized and aligned. Also, this combination (dual Z and anti-backlash nuts) did NOT cause any Z binding at all, and I am using BOTH anti-backlash nuts (one on each lead screw). I did make sure to use a very high quality grease lubricant (look for Super Lube SILICONE Lubricating Grease here on Amazon) to make sure there's as little friction as possible between the lead screws and the anti-backlash nuts.One more thing for those worried about the belt being too tight, the belt that came with my kit was actually a 618-2GT, not a 616-2GT as described, but the 618 actually fit perfectly (the 616 would've been too small). I am still using the belt tensioner, but at its slightest tension setting.