CYCLOSpoke Thread Rolling Machine - Suitable for 12, 13 & 14 Gauge Spoke Thread Rolling Heads (Heads not Included)

TODO OK

I found the tool to be reasonably robust. Does require setting up the spoke clamp height to center it with the impressioning head. PVC tape along the spoke clamp groove to stop it marring pre-painted spokes, though you still have to be careful. No flakey plated coating or cheapo plastic bits.TIPS:1. Use gobs of proper thread cutting oil - Don’t cheap out here. Without it you will either not cut, or mash the three impressioning heads. Going in dry will not lead to a successful cut. Don’t substitute with some random oil you found in your shed either.2. Clean the spoke shaft and the three tool heads after EVERY cut. I use a fine but stiff bristle brush from an old electric shaver for this, along with a small microfiber cloth. Cleanliness will prevent a rough cut. Re-gob in cutting oil afterward.If you find it hard to start a cut on a blank spoke (applying mega pressure) try using a die just to get the first few threads in. Those threads can be chopped off (i.e. oversize the spoke length to account for this) or never mind as about 2mm should have no effect on the spoke strength as it will be deep in the nipple.Calibrate the heads by using a good spoke so that the tool heads barely scratch the existing threads. Use a magnifying glass to check the impressioned threads match the precut threads peak and depth. Use a ruler or gauge from tool nut to nut OD for each specific spoke size (jot down the value) to aid in resetting after recalibrating for different spoke diameters.Calibrating the tool heads requires two wrenches/spanners and a lot of grunt. Use longer wrenches rather than bashing em’ with a hammer. Gloves for the more kack handed of us to prevent too much blood being spilled.I do two passes. The first to a Tippex marker for thread end, then loosen the spoke clamp and drive tool head toward the spoke clamp handle and re-clamp it there while the tool is at the marker. Then unwind the tool off the spoke, so on the second pass (after tool clean and lube) the tool cannot cut more than the desired length as it will collide with the spoke clamp.Check the cut (and finish it) by screwing on a nipple to the maximum required depth. Nipple end held with a wrench (PVC tape over the jaws to not scratch the nipple) or use a spoke key. Twist on at the j-bend wearing a padded glove.YMMV. Works for me.

Went to do my first spoke, got everything setup, the tool itself seems fine and I want to like it.. But never even got a spoke done, the rotating turn bar that slips into the pin that holds the die (comes together so youcant see the construction) uses a metal square to just lock in and turn the pin, problem being the metal was so cheap or I got a defective one, that the edges wore immediately and now it slips, not even sure it will work... 2 days after I can return it :/ and I cant find no way to warranty since this is overseas and no one to contact...

The tool itself seems ok but the actual threader attachment are such hot garbage wish super sloppy tolerances that the spoke literally goes through it and wiggles. Don’t waste your time buying this crap!

Item in good working condition.

Crappy machine produces crappy results.